drdiy

Tub Re-glazing / Rotting Wood Siding and Trim

In Uncategorized on September 8, 2014 at 11:02 am

Q:

What are your thoughts on tub re-glazing?

A:

Even if you’re a great cook, you’ll never be able to bake this!

The finish on tile, sinks, tubs and basins is baked on at the factory. When it’s chipped, cracked or worn, it can be re-glazed or patched, but don’t expect it to last like the original finish. There are several epoxy enamel kits for the do-it-yourselfer such as “Tough as Tile” from Rhodes American Company. They work, but require a lot of preparation and my experience shows it only lasts for a few to several years.

The difference between a “few” to “several” years is in the preparation of the surface. You should remove all fixtures such as spouts, handles, drains and overflow cover. Then thoroughly clean the entire surface with a mild muriatic acid solution mixed with water at a ratio of 6×1. You’ll find muriatic acid at paint and hardware stores. You absolutely should be working in a well-ventilated area wearing gloves, goggles, and following instructions.

Painting the muriatic acid mixture onto the surface will etch and clean the surface. Rinse it several times to apply the epoxy enamel mixture. They come in two parts, which you add equally. The mixture should be left to stand for approximately 1 and 1/2 hours. Using a quality pure bristle brush, apply the first coat. When dry, apply the second coat.

You shouldn’t use the tub or sink for 48-hours afterward, which during that time, you, of course, will be left high and dry.

Doesn’t sound like fun, and it’s not. My solution is not to re-glaze or even replace the tub. Check into relining the tub. There are several companies that will come out, measure

and photograph the tub. They make a 1/4-inch acrylic liner that they adhere to the original tub after the plumbing fixtures and drain have been removed. The plumbing fixtures are reinstalled after the liner is installed. Now you’re ready for a nice hot bath.

Q:

I am noticing the wood siding and trim around my house is starting to rot. What can I do to stop it before it gets any worse?

A:

Rotting wood siding and trim will only get worse if not corrected. Wood siding and trim around a house should and could last decades if kept properly maintained and dry. The key word here is “dry. According to the Country Journal Magazine, termites and dry rot both thrive in wood that remains damp and warm (above 50-dgerees) for long periods, and only extreme pressure treated lumber can withstand that abuse and only for a limited length of time.

Dry wood never rots. The most common sources of damaging moisture are soil contact, plumbing leaks, vapor condensation and rain.

Rain per se doesn’t hurt: problems arise when it collects on a flat surface or is allowed to soak into places where it won’t dry out for days or weeks. Moldy wood will continue to rot, even after being treated with preservatives, unless moisture is kept away.

So the first step is preserving the wood is to eliminate the source of moisture. The common areas to correct are a poorly flashed door or window, rain getting in behind a gutter or moisture condensation inside the wall. This condition comes from moisture inside the house, not outside, and especially common in older houses where the walls were insulated years after the house was built.

If you have small areas of deteriorating trim like around a porch column or windowsill, they can usually be patched successfully with one of the numerous wood fillers available at your local hardware or building supply stores.

A basic inexpensive wood filler available is called “Water Putty” by Durham. You just dig out the rotten area, mix the water putty with water until you have the proper consistency and fill in the damaged area. It will be “putty in your hands” and it works just fine.

“Minwax Wood Hardener” is another product that reinforces soft wood and forms the base for their “Minwax Wood Filler”. Better yet, you can use the hardener along with the inexpensive Durham product.

There are other products like “Cure Rot” by Atlas Minerals, which is a resin and activator. It’s a good product, but expensive. Use the products at your hardware store first. I think if you follow directions (as I’ve always said an interesting concept) you’ll be quite satisfied.

Invite your family and friends to join my blog too!

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