Gurgle Noises From Garbage Disposal / Yes or No to Use Tar/Felt Paper Before Re-shingling / Replacing Only a Few Bathtub Tiles

In Uncategorized on July 10, 2014 at 12:48 pm


My problem is whenever I flush my toilet a loud gurgle is heard coming from the garbage disposal opening in my kitchen sink. Can you advise me on what the problem could be?


My first thought was it’s a vent stack problem. Since I am not generally known as a “thinker” I’ll stick with that answer. Your kitchen sink and bathroom share a common stack.

I’ve seen vent stacks obstructed causing odors and gurgling for any number of reasons. I’ve seen leaves, roofing shingles, balls and even twigs blocking vents. In the winter you could even have condensation accumulating and freezing the vent stack closed.

You can usually go up on the roof with a flashlight and look down the vent stack. A lot of times you’ll see the obstruction within the first foot or so. I’ve used tongs, wire hangers and grabbers to pull out the obstruction. Other times I’ve used a garden hose with full pressure to wash the obstruction down and through the system.

I’ve also heard of snaking out the vent stack on a one-story ranch from within the house, but with a colonial, you’ll have to snake it from the roof down.


I plan to re-roof my hip roofed garage this fall. I will be tearing off all the shingles. A coworker said that I do not have to tar/felt paper the surface before re-shingling the roof. Is tar-paper a necessary step and what purpose does it serve?


What is called tar, felt or roofing paper is usually required by most city codes. It is to protect the wood sheathing during construction as well as be a temporary last line of defense if shingles blow off.

If you’re doing the work yourself, you may get away without putting it on your garage roof, but it really should always be under shingles on a house unless the local building inspector says it is not required.

Remember, the local building inspector does have the final say, unless he’s at home with his wife.


I’ve got a couple of ceramic tiles around my bathtub that came loose. Can they be re-attached to the wall or will I need to re-do all the tiles?


You have to ask yourself a few questions: Are any other tiles loose? Knock or tap on the surrounding tiles with your knuckle. If they’re loose they’ll sound different than tiles that are securely adhered to the walls.

If you only have a few tiles to re-attach hold on and I’ll explain how. If you have dozens and dozens that are loose you may want to find out why. Are they loose from a leak, poor workmanship, or bad grout? Obviously, you’ll need to correct any leak first.

Next, probe the wall where the tiles are missing. Is it solid and in good condition? If not, you may need to pull off more tiles and cut away sections to replace a bad substrate. Depending on severity you may have to replace one or even all the three walls around the tub. Some poor tile jobs only had drywall behind the tile and generally by now you’ll find mold growing in the drywall as the tiles loosen. Have the mold tested to determine if it’s hazardous. If it is, it should be cut away and removed by a licensed contractor familiar with mold cleaning and hazardous materials.

Now as promised, supposedly you only have a few or several loose tiles. All you’ll need is a product from Tile Guard™ called “Tile Grout Repair Kit™. It has a grout saw and adhesive grout.

Using the grout saw remove any old, loose or damaged grout. The saw has a carbide tipped course edge that fits in between ceramic tiles. It works by dragging the blade across the grout.

The Tile Grout from Tile Guard™ is a no mixing, ready to use repair product that not only adheres tiles to walls but repairs and replaces grout.

The tile grout repair kit has a suggested retail price of $6.95 and is available at home improvement stores such as Lowes.

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