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Archive for 2012|Yearly archive page

Re-sealing a Concrete Patio / Can Alligatoring Paint Be Corrected ? / Vermiculite Insulation

In Asbestos Tile, Q&A, Vermiculite on May 15, 2012 at 12:29 pm

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Q:
I have a concrete patio, which was sealed with a 50-50 mixture of boiled linseed oil and kerosene 8 years ago. We are happy with it, and I am thinking of resealing it with the same mixture, but not sure if it requires stripping.  If it does, what kind of mixture do I use to strip it before applying a new coat? Also can this 50-50 mixture be used for sealing stamped concrete patios?

A:

There is no need to remove the previous sealer since it has long worn away due to weather, the suns rays and normal wear. The only thing you need to do is make sure the surface is clean and dry before you reseal it. My recommendation is to wait until it is nice and hot to apply the sealer, otherwise it takes too long to dry.

Finally, this method of sealing concrete is not only recommended for patios, it is also recommended for driveways, porches and walkways as well.

Q:

The paint on some walls looks like the hide of an alligator. Can it be corrected?

A:

Yes, it can be corrected. You didn’t read me say it can be done easily, but I will say it could be corrected and maybe worth the effort to you.

Sometimes numerous random cracks appear over the wall – not straight cracks, but cracks that actually look like an alligator’s hide. These cracks originate within the paint itself. A couple of circumstances contribute to this problem: Applying paint over a surface that’s not clean or is greasy, and most often, applying a flat paint over glossy enamel or a varnished woodwork.

In the future, if you plan on painting over gloss or semi-gloss enamel paints or varnishes, sand and clean the surface prior to painting. Then apply a de-glosser, like Liquid Sandpaper.

To eliminate the alligatoring-paint, you have two alternatives: A temporary solution is to fill and sand each and every crack with spackling compound and repaint. The permanent solution is to chemically strip off all the layers of paint, clean, sand, prime the walls, and re-paint. Keep in mind that most of the paint under the latex topcoats probably contains lead. Lead paint must be removed using precautions. You must be careful not to stir up dust or cause fumes that contain lead. You really should consider hiring a professional since you are going to set up a containment area in each room that you’ll be working in. Containment means removing everything from those rooms. The carpeting and floors will have to be covered with heavy-gauge, six-mil plastic and all seams taped. The plastic should even be taped to the baseboards. The heat supply and returns must all be sealed off and you will need to wear disposable clothing, goggles and protective mask. You can find out more about safety measures by calling 1-800-424-LEAD. Ask for the brochure “Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home.” This brochure explains what to do before, during, and after renovations.

Now that you think about it, those cracks don’t look so bad after all, do they? They sort of give the walls character. And speaking of character, I’m often called one.

Q:
You inspected my house for a purchaser and found vermiculite insulation in the attic. They did not buy the house because of it. Why?

A:
Vermiculite is known to contain hazardous asbestos.

EPA’s recent testing in houses with vermiculite found that for the most part, undisturbed attic air contains no detectable asbestos. If vermiculite is disturbed, or samples pulled from the bottom of the insulation, there is up to 2% of a very hazardous type of asbestos. Since any exposure to asbestos is unsafe a licensed asbestos contractor should remove it.
Another problem with vermiculite is just its existence in the attic. Houses breathe and vacillate between negative and positive air pressure. When your house is under negative pressure you could be pulling asbestos fibers into the air via wall sockets, light fixtures, recessed lights, gaps between the floor and walls, etc.

Vermiculite looks about the size of the eraser on a pencil. The colors vary from silver-gold to a gray-brown. If you think you have it, do not go into the attic.

Musty Odor From A Crawl Space / Leaking Chimney Clean-out / Wet Crawl Space / Wet Chimney Insulation

In Crawl Space, Odors, Q&A on May 8, 2012 at 2:33 pm

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Q:

I have a musty odor emitting from the crawl space. How can I stop the odor from rising through the floor?

A:

Check to make sure that a plumbing fixture or pipe is not leaking into the crawl. The leak could be rotting some of the sub-floor and possibly the insulation.

You’ll need to crawl under the house with a flashlight and look directly under the kitchen and bathroom areas. Check for plumbing leaks or leaking through the foundation walls.

Check the insulation around the perimeter or is it attached to the underside of the floor joists? In either case, it could be trapping moisture or critters and the smell could be originating from either. In both cases, it’s not uncommon.

If you’re sure that neither one of these issues is the cause of the problem, than you’ll have to remove the insulation away from the band joists. That is the insulation stuffed between the joists along the top of the exterior walls. Oftentimes when inspecting houses, I find evidence of leaking, rotting and wood destroying insect activity in that area and it is usually caused by improperly installed door walls, entries or brick flashing on the exterior.

Remember, where there’s smoke there’s fire and in your case, you need to find the leak and eliminate the odor.

Q:

I am confused. My real estate agent said I have to hire a home inspector, but the seller says it must be a licensed home inspector.

A:

There is no licensing for inspectors in Michigan. That’s not entirely bad. I’ve talked to inspectors where there is licensing and it seems to “dumb down” the industry.

The best inspectors are qualified and must undergo ongoing continuing education training. They also must be members of the American Society of Home Inspectors (www.ashi.org) or the National Society of Home Inspectors (www.nahi.org).

Both organizations set standards of practice, require continuing education and establish guidelines regarding ethics for inspectors.

Make sure any inspector is a member of one of these organizations and has errors and omissions insurance.

Q:

I have water in my crawl space. It has a dirt floor that is covered with plastic and I put extensions on the downspouts. There are no problems with rot or mold but there is a slight musty odor.

A:

With time you will have mold and rot so correcting the leak is imperative.

I am assuming the ground around the exterior is sloped away from the house and not toward it.

Your next step would be to either waterproof the foundation walls and install a drain tile system on the exterior or put in a drain tile system to a sump pump in the crawl.

Whatever you do is expensive, but necessary. Check in the yellow pages under basement waterproofing companies.

Q:

My water heater and furnace are in the basement and exhaust into a mutual chimney quite apart from the fireplace. There is an ash clean-out door at the base of the chimney. In rainy weather or at a thaw, through this door comes a pretty good flow of water.

A:

First, install a metal chimney cap and screening on top of the flue. Also make sure the wash at the top of the chimney is not cracked, broken, rusted through and/or leaking.

While those are the common sources of leaking, your problem may be because the chimney below grade is cracked and water is getting into it and leaking through the clean-out door.

If that’s the case, basement waterproofers should be able to repair the problem.

Q:

When it rains, water drips into our basement under the fireplace. The contractor who installed the fireplace for us has told us, that the water coming through the chimney has also ruined the insulation inside the chimney. He says the cold drafts we get in our living room each winter coming from the firebox are the result of the insulation having been soaked and no longer doing its job. I’m trying to decide what to do.

A:

I agree that the insulation is most likely ruined. The leak probably originated from the chimney wash. If it is masonry, (which I doubt) it can be patched with vinyl concrete. If it’s a metal pan, it is a poor design and prone to leaking.

Mystery Spots on Basement Floor / Missing Roof Shingles / Garage Door Opener Problem

In Miscellaneous, Q&A on May 1, 2012 at 9:41 am

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Q:
I have never had any problems with leaks in my basement.

Over the last several months I have noticed several dark spots appearing on the concrete floor. They are not moist and some of them have white areas, but those are not wet. The spots are not near walls or under any pipes; they are more toward the middle of the basement. Do you have any idea of what they might be?

A:
Those are leaks and efflorescence as a result of leaks. The moisture under the slab is permeating up. If you have a sump pump, check it and verify that it is working and possibly lower it in the sump to make sure it comes on sooner.

Q:
Every year about this time, or for that matter, every year at just about anytime, the wind rips off a shingle or two from my house. It is becoming expensive to hire a roofer to replace them each time. The roof isn’t that old so it shouldn’t need replacing. How can I replace a missing shingle myself and save money?

A:
When you inspect your asphalt or fiberglass shingles, you should find that each shingle, which generally has three or four tabs, is probably secured with nails or staples. The nails should be about one-inch in from each edge and another one over each slot. The overlapping shingles should conceal the nails or staples. Obviously, your self-sealing tabs did not seal properly. A common problem with shingles installed in cold weather.

You need to slip a pry bar under the overlapping shingle (which is just above the torn/missing shingle) loosen and raise it. After removing the nails, you should be able to pull out the remainder of the damaged shingle.

Using a utility knife cut off several inches along the top of the new replacement shingle along with a small corner on each topside. Slip that newly trimmed shingle into place and nail it down suing four galvanized roofing nails.

Now for the tricky part – trying to nail a new shingle down without damaging the overlapping shingle. A good technique is to slip your trusty old pry bar back up under the overlapping shingle directly over each nail. Then hammer on the pry bar to drive each of the nails down at one time. I hope I’ve driven my point home.

While you’re up there lightly try and lift the remaining shingles. If they are loose, dab a small amount of tar from a tube or caulking gun under each loose tab. That should prevent additional shingles from blowing off.

You know what they say, “What goes up, must come down”. But as you can see, when we’re talking about your roof, what comes down must go back up!

Q:
Help, my automatic garage door opener is acting up.

A:
You didn’t provide enough information, but here’s a start. Check and see if there is anything obstructing the door’s remote sensor. Remove the obstruction and try again. Check and see if you have photoelectric sensors neat the bottom of both sides of the overhead door. They may have become dislodged or misaligned.

The most likely problem is the photoelectric sensors located near the floor. They are a safety feature designed to prevent damage and injury. Make sure there is no obstruction. Even a cobweb could cause the problem.

Perhaps the sensors are loose or not lined up. They could have been bumped or dislodged.

Take a look at them and you should see a small light. The light should be constant and not blinking. If it is, try adjusting and tightening the wing nut at the back of the sensor.
Some concrete floors heave. If that’s the case, adjust the automatic safety reverse. Look for an adjustment screw. If you can’t locate the owner’s manual, and your opener is an older model, it may not have an adjustment knob or screw. If that’s the case, it’s not safe and should be replaced.

If the door activates itself, somebody nearby may be using the same radio code as you. Check your manual for instructions to recode your opener.

Ridding Attic Mold / Installing Glass Block Windows / How To Get Rid of Slab Ants

In Q&A on April 23, 2012 at 10:14 am

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Q:

How do we get rid of mold in the attic on the roof boards?  We have four roof vents. We had our carpeting cleaned and the house was full of steam, which rose to the attic and created the mold. How can we remove the mold?

A:

Four roof vents do not sound like enough unless your house is very small. Additionally, you need soffit vents to work in conjunction with those roof vents. You need one free square foot of attic ventilation for every 150-feet of attic space. The ventilation should be divided between your roof vents and soffit vents.

If indeed the mold was caused by a single incident such as the carpet steam, it “may” not be a health hazard. The mold should be tested. You can call any home inspection company. Some do testing, but all should be able to refer you to an environmental testing company they know is reliable.

The type and the severity of the mold growth in the attic should determine your course of action.

Q:

I’m a senior citizen and own my own home. One of the ways I want to make my house safer is by installing glass block windows. Currently there are four approximately two-foot by one-foot windows. I’ve never opened them and doubt they even can be opened.

My son who lives over an hour away told me it’s illegal. He said I have to have at least one window that can open. He said it’s to get out in case of a fire. Is that true?

A:

Yes and no. First, you probably could never get out that small window or even up to it if your life depended on it.

Regardless, that use to be code. In 2006 the code was altered. It is now permissible (read that as legal) to replace all unfinished basement windows with glass block windows unless there is a bathroom. The code also states that if the basement of the dwelling becomes finished, one egress window must be added.

Basements with a ceiling height less than 80-inches also are not required to have emergency escape and rescue windows.

The code also states basements without habitable spaces and having not more than 200 square feet of floor area shall also not be required to have emergency escape windows.

If an egress window is required, the bottom of the opening of the escape window must not be greater than 44-inches measured from the floor. The window opening needs to be a minimum of five square feet and open to a well equipped with steps or a ladder. Some of this applies to new construction. All of it applies to finished a basement.

Since a permit is required for escape windows as well as finishing a basement, the local inspector will make sure it’s done correctly.

Q:

We have a house with a slab and we are always finding small ants. Is there any environmentally sensitive pesticide that the ants can take back to their nest?

A:

My recommendation includes Terro® “Liquid Ant Baits”, which is manufactured by the Senoret Chemical Company. That is part one of a two-step process.

Step #1:

The sticky chemicals main ingredient is Borax. It is about the safest poison that I know of that works. As a matter of fact, it is specifically made for killing sweet eating ants (your slab ants).

You place the Terro® Liquid Ant Baits where the ants are seen, then just sit back and wait a few days, the ants carry it back to their nests and within a couple of weeks your problem should be eliminated.

Step #2:

Most ant infestations are linked to a colony that is located underground. A good second line of defense is to spread Terro® Outdoor Ant Granules around the perimeter of your house.

From experience, I know this process will have to be repeated periodically. Terro® is available at hardware, garden and home centers.

You can go to www.terro.com for more information.

Michigan Map of Radon Zones / Shower Problem / Roofing Membranes / Getting Hot Water Faster / Water Softener Problem

In Q&A on April 10, 2012 at 10:44 am

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Q:
Where can I find a map/survey of local Southeast Michigan radon levels? Some areas are apt to be lower/higher than others based on local geography.

A:

Go to www.epa.gov/radon/zonemap.html. The color-coded map divides Michigan into three-color zones. The zones are based on aerial radioactivity, soil, geology and existing indoor radon measurements.

Zone 1 counties have predicted indoor radon averages greater than 4 pci/L.

Zone 2 has predicted indoor screening levels between 2 and 4 pci/L.

Zone 3 is averaging less than 2 pci/L.

It is important to understand that thousands of homes in zones 2 and 3 have elevated radon levels and that all homes should be tested for radon.

Q:

We have a home built in 2002 that has Moen fixtures. The full bathroom with a shower/tub combination seldom gets used, but when we went to use it found out that the shower could not produce cold water (only hot) from the tub head. What could be causing this problem?

A:
First, check the coldwater shut-off valve to make sure it is open. If you still have a problem there could possibly be a chunk of solder or minerals that may be obstructing the inside of the faucet cylinder. Turn off the water disassemble the faucet and check to make sure. Shut-offs should be in the basement on the line going to the tub. If not, check the access panel for the valves.

Q:

What the heck are roofing membranes or ice dam membranes?

A:
Roofing membranes are 3-foot wide rolls, which have adhesive on the entire bottom side. Membranes should be installed from the very edge of the roof, behind the gutters and back up the roof.

They are applied directly to bare roof boards. Shingles are nailed on top of the membrane and they seal tight around the nails. Ideally, they should be applied all the way up all valleys, around all vents, chimneys and skylights. While minimum code requires only 3-feet past the exterior walls, it’s best to go at least six to nine feet, depending on the pitch of the roof.

The membrane protects against damage from not only ice dams but where applied, against water damage from missing or torn shingles.

Many manufacturers make the product and it is sold under many names.
Your roofer will know all about them, that I can guaranty.

Q:
I have a house that has a long straight run between the master bedroom and the kitchen. The water heater is right under the master bedroom. To get hot water to the kitchen I have to let the hot water run. Would I need to have an instantaneous hot water tank for the master bedroom and also one for the kitchen?

A:
You have a couple of choices. You can install a tankless water heater, which provides endless point of use hot water near the kitchen. Or another solution is to install a circulating pump that circulates water from your hot water tank throughout the system. You’ll never have to wait for hot water since it will be instantaneous.

There are at least 2 manufacturers; Grundfos (www.grundfos.com and the other is AutoCirc2® www.autocirc.com.

Q:

I purchased a home with well water and after moving in I found that the 4-year-old softener was unable to exchange the water’s high-iron content so I installed an iron removal system. The system was installed with chlorine injection because of suspected iron bacteria. Prior to installation of the new system, I had the well chlorinated and all the plumbing lines were flushed. The iron removal system was installed in sequence with the softener unit, but preceding it. The new iron filtration unit has reduced the iron content, however, it still stains the tubs and sinks and anything else with which it remains in standing contact with. Can you help?

A:
You may need a larger capacity water softener. Depending on the number of occupants living in the house, as well as visitors will determine the size needed. It’s not uncommon for discolored and smelly water from a well when the unit is too small.

Drain Odor / Tips for Carpeting a Basement / Wet Yard Problem

In Q&A on April 3, 2012 at 11:11 am

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Q: Can you help me with a problem with my bathroom sink? I notice an awful odor coming from the drain.

A: Many times I’ve gone out to people’s houses to inspect for an odor or specific problem and found pieces of roofing shingles obstructing the vent stack opening. I’ve also found birds, wasps, leaves and other nests in or on the vent. But first, pour bleach into the overflow pipe and scrub with a baby bottlebrush. If the odor persists and you can safely go up on the roof, look down the vent stack. You should see nothing but a clean, unobstructed pipe. Oftentimes, the pipe will go down a few feet and narrow to a smaller pipe, but it should be clear. If there is an obstruction, you may be able to snag it with a wire from a coat hanger. Don’t push what you find down farther. It should be removed. If everything looks good, you may be able to blow out a minor obstruction using your garden hose. If all else fails, call a plumber. That’s why they get the big bucks. By the way you can install hardware cloth screening on top of the vent to keep out debris and nests.

Q: I plan on carpeting my basement. Is there is a way to retard humidity through the concrete and also insulate the floor?

A: One product is a sub-floor system from DRIcore™. It consists of engineered wood panels. The underside is bonded to polyethylene with raised “cleats”. The cleats provide an air space between the cold concrete and the wood sub-floor. It also is a moisture barrier. Contact them at1-888-767-6374. Another product is called Enviro-Cushion. It is a carpet pad for concrete floors. According to the manufacturer it has an R-factor of 4.5 yet it is only 3/8-inch thick. The padding is available locally at Fair-Way Tile & Carpet. You can call them at 248-588-4431.

Q: I have discovered mold on some couch cushions that I stored in a second floor hall closet in my house. How do I go about correcting this problem on a very medium income?

A: There are literally thousands of different types of mold. Not all are hazardous and some certainly are beneficial. Just because you have mold on a few cushions, is not a reason to panic. To have mold you need three things: Air, a food source for the mold (in your case it’s those cushions) and moisture. You cannot eliminate air from the equation, but you can get rid of the moisture. Begin by asking yourself these questions: Why were the cushions wet? Did the moisture come from a pet, plant, roof or plumbing leak from above? Once you have answered those questions and corrected the problem, its time to clean and restore those cushions. They might be able to be cleaned using Concrobium Mold Control®, which is effective against mole and mildew organisms on both hard and fabric surfaces. It comes in a one-quart, ready-to-use spray bottle. Always test a product first in an inconspicuous corner or edge before ruing the entire cushion. Concrobium can be purchased at Home Depot for about nine dollars for a one quart spray bottle. You can also call a local dry cleaning establishment and ask if they can clean and restore those items. They probably can. Put them in plastic garbage bags and take them to the cleaners. When you get them back, lay back and enjoy your fresh, comfortable couch.

Q: We have lived in our house for nine years and recently noticed one side of our yard and the front lawn are constantly wet. I suspect either tree roots or poor drainage due to our lot position. Who would be the best person to determine what might be causing the problem?

A: If you have a sprinkler system, there could be an underground leak. If your lot is the lowest in the area, it could be the immediate neighbors yards are draining to yours. If the water is not sitting next to the house you can wait. You’ll need to call a landscaping company to install a french drain or a dry well to help with that problem.

Life Saving Tip / Efflorescence on Basement Walls / What Causes ‘Blue Water’ / Cleaning a Showerhead

In GFI, Plumbing, Q&A on March 27, 2012 at 4:01 pm

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I’ve got a shocking life-saving tip for you. How many of you have heard of, or know about Ground Fault Interrupters or Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters? (They’re also referred to as GFI or GFCI). If your home was built within the last thirty year, you more than likely have at least one in your home. Now, GFI’s are similar to a circuit breaker, but more sensitive. They’ll sense if someone is getting electrocuted and disconnect the power within 1/40th of a second.

There are three types of GFI’s:

• Circuit breaker combination: Installed in the electrical service box, it protects everything on the circuit.

• Receptacle type: Replaces a regular wall receptacle and when installed, still serves as an outlet but offers the additional protection of the GFI.

• Portable: Generally used by trades people, such as carpenters who use power tools at different job sites.

Once installed, GFI’s require maintenance. On each interrupter there is a test button. Each month, this button should be pushed to trip the safety device and device reset. Tripping the device cleans oxidation and corrosion on the inside, which can affect its sensitivity and ability to protect. Basically, what I’m saying is that if you don’t trip or press and reset the test buttons monthly the GFI’s could become useless and not trip when they’re suppose to.

In new home construction, they are required for kitchens, bathrooms, exterior and even garage receptacles. If your home doesn’t have a GFI, install at least one. If you have a swimming pool, all equipment and surrounding plugs should be protected. If you are not handy, I promise you, any licensed electrician can easily install them for you.

Q: I have a block basement wall and the paint is crumbling off in areas near the floor leaving a white, powdery residue behind. What causes this and how can it be corrected?

A: This is caused by leaking and is called efflorescence. You may not actually see water on the floor because the seepage may be minor and evaporates. Make sure the terrain is sloped away 4 to 6-feet with at least a 1-inch slope. The patio, driveway or walks should also be slightly pitched to direct rainwater away from the house. If you have a sump pump, make sure ground water is draining into it and it is pumping the water out and away from the house.

Q: Our house burnt down and was rebuilt on the same lot. Since we moved back we have blue water. We never had this problem before the house burnt down, so we feel it is not the water supplied by our water company. When taking a shower or bath the walls of our showers/tubs get a blue/green film on them and although it can be scrubbed off, I find myself scrubbing the showers and tubs a few times a week. We spoke with our builder and plumber since day one and they said this happens but have never figured out the cause or the cure. Have you ever heard of this?

A: I spoke to David from 4-A Plumbing and he said it sounds as if lead-free flux or lead-free solder was used and recommends to get a water test done to see if the test results show a lot of lead. I think it may be something else. Check with an electrician and have him inspect to make sure the electrical system is properly grounded 8-feet into the earth as well as all ground connections are secure and proper.

Q: My showerhead used to have good pressure but not anymore. Can it be cleaned?

A: Minerals in your water blocked openings in the shower’s head. Put a rag around the head so you won’t damage the chrome. Remove the showerhead using a wrench. Hold the neckpiece coming out of the wall, with your hand or a channel lock. Once removed place the showerhead in a jar filled with vinegar and let it soak for about two hours. Lightly poke out the spray holes with a safety pin and reinstall. Or, pour the vinegar in a small plastic bag and tape it around the showerhead without removing it. Let it soak for a couple of hours.

Carbon Monoxide / Stucco Chimney Problems / Leak From Ice Dam

In Miscellaneous, Smoke/CO Detectors on March 20, 2012 at 9:30 am

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Dear Readers,

This question comes from me. It is: how many of you have a carbon monoxide detector, and if so, is it working properly?

A:

Carbon Monoxide (CO) is also known as the “silent killer” because it is an odorless, colorless and tasteless gas.

CO is a by-product of incomplete combustion. It doesn’t just originate from a cracked furnace heat exchanger.

Countless numbers of people have died because of exhaust gasses. More than 20,000 Americans go to the emergency room or died from using space heaters, ovens and barbeques and from CO seeping into their houses when they are warming up their cars.

There is a solution. CO detectors are available at any home, hardware and box store. They do exactly what they claim, detect carbon monoxide to save you and your families lives.

In spite of that, only half the homes in our area have a CO detector. Some of those units are older and not even working. If your carbon monoxide detector is older than five years, it’s time to replace it. It is important now more than ever to install CO detectors in your house. Please do it this weekend.

Q:

We have a two-story house. In the winter a large frozen waterfall develops from the upper roof corner to a first story roof. That section has been completely ice shielded running up the adjoining wall. I installed an electrical heat cord and the frozen waterfall still develops.

When we have a sudden thaw, we sometimes get a leak to the first floor room under the bottom of the waterfall.

A:

If you did install ice shields under the entire first floor shingles and up the adjoining wall you should not have a leak. It’s possible that you did not go up the adjoining wall far enough or the leak is originating under the second floor shingles and running down between the exterior and interior walls until it gets to the addition.

I have inspected hundred of homes where a second floor ice dam runs down through the walls and ends up in the basement.

My recommendation is to install ice shields all the way up all valleys. Add more insulation and ventilation.

Q:

My chimney is constructed of block that has white cement that has been troweled onto the block to give it a stucco-like appearance. The problem is the cement is cracking and chunks are falling off. The cracking is in the upper third of this 2-story chimney. What do you think the proper way to repair this chimney so I don’t have this problem again in a few years?

A:

There are just a few issues that could be causing the problem. The chimney “wash” or cap is damaged allowing moisture to get behind and loosen the stucco. In that case, repair/replace the wash and all loose and missing stucco.

If the wash is intact you have a bigger problem since the stucco may have been improperly installed and not bonding to the block. If that’s true, you’ll probably need to take it all off and start over.

Finally, in the past, was your furnace replaced with a high-efficiency furnace that now vents through the wall? If so, was the chimney relined to reduce the interior opening to accommodate just a gas water heater?

If you only have a gas water heater exhausting into a large older chimney, the unburned gasses, carbon monoxide and condensate cannot go up and out the chimney, which causes those gasses to condense within the chimney. In cold weather those gasses, which contain moisture, migrate through to the cold exterior. That is what causes spalling bricks and failing stucco.

The problem was so severe the industry calls it “orphaned water heaters”.

If that’s the cause, relining the chimney before it completely fails is necessary.

Indoor Air

In Indoor Air Quality on March 14, 2012 at 2:23 pm

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Have you been suffering from:
•    Insomnia
•    Allergies
•    Colds
•    Headaches
•    Fatigue
•    Lack of concentration
•    Asthma
•    All of the above

Research has found that many health related problems are directly related to the air in our homes. Back in the 1970’s we started caulking, insulating and sealing up our houses to save energy (read that as “save money”). Our old drafty homes may have been expensive to heat but the infiltrating air made the air indoors cleaner and safer.

Add to the equation that each household uses a lot more cleaning products and chemicals than we did back then. The majority of these products contain what is now referred to as Volatile Organic Compounds or VOC’s. VOC’s are the off gassing of chemicals in items such as cleaning products, draperies, furniture, paints, pesticides, repellants, bleach, cologne and aerosol sprays. It’s a wonder we aren’t gasping for breath at home.

Other sources of indoor air problems are carpeting, bedding, refrigerator drip pans, dirty air conditioning coils, HVAC filters, ductwork, too much humidity, as well as pets and bathrooms without exhaust fans. Keep in mind this is only a partial list.

What can we do to make the air in our homes safer to breathe?
•    Change the furnace/AC filters frequently.
•    Have your ductwork cleaned.
•    Properly maintain humidifiers. That means cleaning them periodically.
•    Repair any and all leaks. I.e. roof, flashing, basement and plumbing.
•    Clean refrigerator coils and drip pan according to the manufacturer’s requirements.
•    Install and use kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans that vent to the outdoors. Exhaust fans that just circulate the air    do very little to clean it.
•    Make sure the attic is well ventilated.
•    If you have a crawl space, install a 6-mil vapor retarder on the ground of the entire crawl.
•    Insulate all cold water pipes to reduce condensation.
•    Vacuum carpeting frequently and replace the cleaner bag as needed.
•    Remove and properly dispose of all household paints, cleaners, chemicals and strippers.
•    Make sure the dryer is vented to the outdoors. Clean the screen after each use. Periodically clean the dryer exhaust vent pipe.
•    Keep pets clean.
•    Control humidity so moisture does not collect on windows or cold walls in the winter.
•    Install an air-to-air heat exchanger for your furnace.
•    Have your furnace or boiler inspected annually and install carbon monoxide detectors throughout the house.
•    Do not store firewood indoors.
•    When you install new carpeting, keep the windows open to ventilate the room.
•    Do not smoke or allow smoking in the house.
•    Clean your house frequently and thoroughly.
•    Have the house tested for radon and mold.
•    If your house is over 30 years old, have it tested for asbestos and lead.
•    Purchase low VOC products only.

Radon is an odorless, colorless, tasteless gas that exists everywhere. The problem with radon occurs only in our houses. It attaches itself to the air, which we inhale. It contributes to between 20 and 30,000 lung cancer deaths annually. Radon mitigation usually costs under $1000.00.

Asbestos was ubiquitous. Thousands of products in our daily lives contain asbestos. A few include ductwork, brake linings, drapes, gaskets, insulation in attics, pipe wraps, boilers, ceiling and floor tiles, roofing, siding and the list goes on. Asbestos was banned and was no longer installed beginning in 1972. The problem is that it exists in our daily lives. Michigan ranks twelfth in the nation in asbestos related deaths.

Mold is also everywhere. There are tens of thousands of molds. There are probably 1000 different molds in our homes but only a handful are toxic. But everyone’s tolerance is different so we have differing reactions to mold exposure. If in doubt, have an environmental company do an indoor air mold test.

Lead-based paint was banned in 1978. Lead is especially hazardous to small children and infants. If your house is over 30 years old and/or you are planning on doing remodeling or paint scraping/sanding, you should have the walls and woodwork tested.

Lon’s Favorite Tips

In Miscellaneous on March 6, 2012 at 11:45 am


Every now and then I get in a generous mood and decide to share some of my favorite homeowner tips with you.

Of course, I didn’t put them in any particular order. I have listed them in the order they “popped” into my head.

Some I’ve learned because I was a “muddy boots” contractor and others I’ve accumulated from reading publications such as, The Family Handyman, Consumer Reports, Old House Journal, etc.

Peruse the following list. I hope you learn something from it that will save you time and money. If you have a tip you want to share with fellow Eccentric readers, send it to me at drdiy@comcast.net.

Cleaning a microwave: (I found this tip in the Family Handyman and love it).

  • Partially fill any microwave-safe cup with water and place a healthy slice of lemon on the water. Put it in the microwave and boil the water for approximately one minute. Don’t open the door. Let the steam loosen baked on food and spills. Wait ten minutes and open the door. You should then be able to wipe the interior clean.

These charcoal tips come to us from This Old House Magazine (September 2009). When hardwoods burn you get charcoal. Charcoal is great for barbequing, but did you know it has other great uses?

  • Place charcoal in open bowls or perforated plastic bags in your fridge or drawers to banish odors.
  • Put a lump of charcoal beneath the cut stems in a vase to help the water stay clean and clear.
  • Mix charcoal into your compost pile to increase its carbon content. (If the pile smells like ammonia it needs carbon.)
  • Before storing rock salt or sand used during winter, mix a few lumps of charcoal into the bag or bucket. They’ll soak up the dampness and prevent these materials from freezing or caking together.
  • Potted orchids benefit from charcoal’s alkalinity. Mix small pieces with your potting medium (e.g., bark or wood chunks) to nourish the flowers.
  • Place a few lumps of charcoal in your toolbox to absorb moisture and keep the metal from oxidizing.

WD-40 was invented in 1953. Technicians were looking for a rust preventative solvent and degreaser to protect parts for the Atlas Missile program. The name came out of that project, which was to find a “water displacement” compound. They were successful with the fortieth formulation. That’s where the name WD-40 originated.

Now that you know that, did you know there are many uses for WD-40? Check out the following:

  • Keep rust from forming on tools.
  • Eliminates squeaks in fans.
  • Restores and cleans vehicle roof racks.
  • It can be used on leather car dashboards and vinyl bumpers.
  • Spray it into the tracks of drawers and windows. It makes them easier to slide.
  • Removes tomato stains from clothing.
  • Loosens stuck or hard to glide zippers.
  • Keeps your bathroom mirror from fogging up after a shower.
  • Removes duct tape residue.
  • It can remove tar and scuff marks from kitchen floor

Restore the scent of cedar to that old cedar closet:

In time, the oils in cedar harden on the surface sealing in that delightful aroma. To restore the scent, while wearing a dust mask and eye protection lightly sand the cedar with 100-grit sandpaper. If that isn’t successful, you can wipe cedar oil onto the newly sanded wood.

Removing stick-on mirrors:

Those mirrors were pretty common in the 1970’s, but so were mullets.  There are a few methods to attack this problem but all involve you wearing protective eyeglasses and heavy gloves. Another necessity is contact paper or adhesive shelf liner.

Start by peeling back and attaching the contact paper to the mirror. That should help prevent glass from flying everywhere as you pry and pull it away from the wall.

Using a heat gun or hair dryer, try and soften the adhesive holding that holds the mirror to the wall. As you work, slip a putty knife or a hacksaw blade between the wall and the mirror until you have it loosened enough to lift off.

Once you’ve removed all the mirrors, you’ll find you need to patch the damaged drywall. Cut away and sand any loose drywall paper. Paint the area with KILZ primer and when dry, patch with spackling paste, sand and re-prime. Now you’re ready to paint.

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